Last year, my dad was lamenting that he was jealous of my
husband’s ability to surf. Being the
handy helper that I am, I told my dad I’d take surfing lessons with him, and we
could both learn how to ride the waves.
I assumed, incorrectly, that surfing would be like most sports. You learn the mechanics, practice them, and
within a short period of time, you’re able to “do” whatever is needed to
participate (or, possibly be exceptionally good at the “do” and brag to your
husband that he is incredibly lucky to have such a talented wife).
REALITY is often times a universe away from my imaginings.
I assumed I would be “good” at surfing. And yeah, I assumed my dad at age 60 plus
plus, who was a professional athlete (football), played two college sports (football
and rugby), still plays polo (horses not water), and who throughout my life
always seems to have the golden touch in all things athletic would be a natural
as well at this easy breezy surfing thing.
WRONG.
Surfing is hard. Or,
it was hard for us (perhaps there are natural surf wunderkind out there –
congratulations to you - I am jealous).
We paddled out into the frigid water, I balanced my belly on my board
with my toes in the air to slow the numbing process - did I mention I scheduled
these lessons in February???
Overall execution – check.
Details
–eeeehh scoring in the low range.
And we floated, we listened, we tried, and
flailed around. Our instructor was the
epitome of patient with us, and we worked hard, but we didn’t leave the beach
as experts. We left as popsicle versions
of ourselves, wondering if we could manage the next two days of lessons I had
dutifully scheduled.
Day two, my dad quit early in. He was beyond his breaking point of
frustration and decided he wanted to go back to doing something he enjoyed (and
was good at). During day two; I was able
to improve and was still cold, but became surprisingly motivated to keep
trying. I realized, that yes, surfing IS hard, but it is also
incredible. You’re literally surrounded
by the earth’s beauty, and all five of your senses are stimulated by the
surroundings. Once the lessons were
over, a new friend and I started to go out and flail around pretty
regularly. We weren’t setting any
records, but we were laughing a lot and enjoying the scenery. It’s been a year and a half and I’ve taken 2
additional sets of lessons. Each time I’ve
taken lessons, it is helpful, but I still have a long, long, looooooong way to
go before I can claim to be knowledgeable when it comes to surfing.
Because surfing is
hard, it offers you the opportunity to feel continuously humbled (when a 12 year old
is ripping past you wiggling his toes on the nose) and prideful (when you are
able to improve to some small degree at something that you’ve been working
towards). It also forces you to not take
yourself so seriously. There are tons of
cheesy metaphors I could throw in here, about surfing giving you a connection
to mother earth, or that surfing the waves is like riding the changing tides of
life. Though both statements are true, I
think everyone who does try to learn to surf, does it for their own reasons,
and that those reasons likely evolve over time.
I started out wanting to have an excuse to use all of the surf equipment
in our garage and thought it would be a cool way to get into shape. Now, I think it gives me time to
laugh with a friend, and reminds me to enjoy the ocean.
So if you want to learn how to surf, find a friend, take
some lessons, keep your sense of humor close and your expectations in the
car. Enjoy the flail. After each time, your ego may be bruised, but
your spirit might be leavened by the salty sea and the scenery around you.
